PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK S/S 2020

‘Obsession’

S/S 2020

Like a rose, ‘Obsession’ explores the layers of love, individuality and beauty as well as their transparent fragility. ‘Obsession’ seeks to explore the complexity of these layers.

With further inspiration from the feminine form, ‘Obsession’ ultimately captures the innate sensual, delicate essence with layers of sheer contrasts revealing inner strength and beauty.

‘Obsession’ also showcases the traditions of couture – the cut and drape of exquisite fabric, age-old techniques and attention to detail. Couture, like a rose, can be beautiful, fierce and fragile.

No matter what season or time of year or location, Aleem Yusuf shows always begin with a homage to Melbourne. Or to be more precise, with a homage to Melbourne black – a beautiful colour worn by Melburnians in all seasons. So it is only appropriate that we honour this warm, deep, nurturing shade of black to introduce the ‘Obsession’ collection. This first gown will also hint at what is about to unfold as we welcome you to our ‘Obsession’.

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK A/W 2019/20

‘Nomade’

A/W 2019/20

The Nomade Story

The Nomade design process saw past melancholic experiences of distance infused with highs, visions and conversations that translated into a creative emotional response. These ideas flooded out in an exuberant burst of creative expression through pencil on paper. The flow of colours, textures and embellishments fell into place like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle, creating vibrant textural pieces. Ideas buried deep inside had suddenly come to life.

The Nomade colour palate is inspired by two distinct phases: my childhood adventures amongst the vivid turmeric golds and lush purples of Pakistan’s bazaars, followed by my adult life in Australia and the deep blues of the ocean contrasting with the reds of the desert sands.

As with all our work, the golden age of couture is referenced throughout: ostrich feathers, Swarovski crystals, glass beads, sequins, lace and evocative draping draw the eye to that era surrounding the great couturier Christian Dior.

The Fabrics

The fabrics indulge the senses: rich silks – satins, crinkle chiffon, dupion, taffeta, organza – along with lurex blends, evoke the senses reminiscent of the gentle ebb and flow of underwater love and the journey of clouds between vast lands. Fabrics from around the world, including the beautiful French lace from Sophie Hallette, complement these dreams of love.

The Silhouette

Having grown up in the eighties, cuts and shapes have been inspired by my fond memories of ruffles, gathers, tulle and shoulder pads. These are referenced in the silhouettes and design features in a contemporary mode to enhance the feminine form.

Working with the fabric grain, using bias cut, fabric manipulation and rich draping has created a silhouette juxtaposing design elements that flatter and empower.

The Technique

Enhancing the nomades’ pilgrimages to exotic lands, our atelier employs traditional couture techniques of draping, ruching, pleating, gathering, dyeing, moulding, corsetry and hand-stitched finishing. Embroidery and beading revel in a luxurious cacophony of textures embodying Swarovski crystals, ostrich feathers, glass beads and delicate threads.

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